CANOEING ACCESSORIES
Newcomers to canoeing seldom realize how much specialized gear is needed for a canoe trip. For starter's there are paddles, life jackets, car-top carriers and tie down ropes. If you're passionate about whitewater, add knee pads, thigh straps and toe blocks, cold water clothing (wet or dry suit) and a crash helmet. Campouts require waterproof packs, tents, sleeping bags, cookware and more. To the list add sailing rigs, poles, spray covers and low horsepower motors, and your canoe becomes a "go anywhere", "have fun everywhere" watercraft.
If you take canoeing seriously (or plan to), you may discover that purchasing a canoe starts a well rationalized buying spree that goes far beyond basic needs. But no matter; toys add to the fun of paddling which, after all, is what canoeing is all about.
Here are some things you need and some things you don't. Prices vary from "I can't believe people buy these things" to nearly free. I own at least one of everything on this list, just because it brings me joy!
PADDLES
Straight, or bent? You can't play good pool with a shlocky cue, or maneuver efficiently with a paddle that's not matched to you and your canoe. Paddle style, weight, and length are the prime concerns.
Style
You need at least two paddles--one for flat water cruising, one for rocky rapids. There are special blades for racing and freestyle competition, and good ones don't come cheap: Seventy-five dollars will buy a decent canoe paddle, $150-$300 will buy the best!
Straight paddles are best for whitewater and freestyle play; bent-shafts (I prefer 12 degree bends) are the clear choice for everything else. Might as well get a straight and bent paddle when you buy your canoe. Here's the formula for determining the correct length:
1. Set your canoe in the water and climb aboard.
2. Measure the distance from your nose (height of the top grip) to the water. That's the shaft length. To this, add the length of the blade (20-25 inches, depending on paddle style). That's the correct paddle length for you. Note that the overall paddle length depends on the height of your canoe seat and the draft of your canoe.
If this sounds too scientific, a 54 inch bent paddle and a 56 inch straight paddle will get you around fine. Note that your bent-shaft paddle should be about two inches shorter than your favorite straight paddle.
Blade shape affects your paddling style: Big wide blades with harsh corners are good in rapids. However, they are noisy and hard to control--the wrong choice for beginners. Blade edges should be wafer thin and there should be no noisy spines on the blade face. A smooth, 7-8 inch wide blade that has gently-rounded corners, is the most practical all-round design.
Wooden Paddles: There's a joy to the feel of wood that is unmatched by other materials. Good wooden paddles are lightweight, very strong and beautiful. And they don't transmit heat or cold to the paddler.
The best wooden paddles weigh under 30 ounces, though anything over 24 ounces is generally considered too heavy for serious touring. Today's best synthetic paddles are a far cry from the familiar aluminum and plastic ones you find in hardware stores. Modern synthetic paddles have carbon-fiber wrapped, foam filled blades and hand-filling oval shafts, molded ergonomic grips and designed-in balance that doesn't vary from paddle to paddle. Popular among racers are the coal-black graphite bent-shaft Zaveral, Barton and Black Bart paddles, which weigh 8-14 ounces and cost $150 to $300. Of all the canoeing accessories a lightweight, carbon-fiber bent shaft is your best bang for the buck. (Only $169.95 at Piragis)
Two hundred dollars seems like an outlandish price to pay for a canoe paddle. I resisted the move to these high-tech sticks for nearly a decade. Then one day a carbon-fiber paddle arrived in the mail. It was a present from a participant on one of my Canadian canoe trips. An enclosed note read: "Enjoy this, Cliff: I feel it is my duty to drag you kicking and screaming into the twentieth century!"
He did. I now own several graphite paddles and I wouldn't be without them at any price. Try one and you won't either!
LIFE JACKETS (PFD's)
Everyone is suing everyone today, so American life jackets are built to buck the trend. Many have much more flotation than is needed or desirable for general cruising. Rigid foams, confining arm-pit holes, hard buckles and designs that fight hypothermia, combine to produce PFD's which are cumbersome, stiff and hot. European jackets are much better, though few are Coast Guard approved.
Nonetheless, there are comfortable American PFD's which are Coast Guard approved. But you won't find them at hardware stores and marinas. Specialty canoe shops are the place to look, though mail order catalogs may provide more options.
Tips: I think the most comfortable—and certainly the best ventilated—PFD’s are those that have narrow vertical ribs (like the popular Seda model that Piragis sells). Three-quarter length (kayak style) vests are the clear choice for short-waisted men and most women. Don't seek advice from friends; try these tests on yourself in the store:
Ride-up: Grasp the jacket by the shoulders and lift it up until it jams under your armpits. This simulates performance in water. Turn your head right and left. Can you see over the jacket? Does the neck of the vest crunch against your chin? If so, this jacket isn't for you!
Arm function: Sit on the floor and work your arms in a paddling motion. The vest must not chafe your armpits.
Flexibility: Move your arms vigorously in and out. Does the vest bunch up and bind? If so, keep shopping!
WATERPROOF BAGS
Plastic bags will tear or abrade unless they're sandwiched between layers of tough material. Here's the procedure:
1. First, place the item to be waterproofed in a strong nylon bag which need not be watertight.
2. Place the nylon bag inside the waterproof plastic bag. Twist, bend over and seal the bag mouth with a loop of shockcord.
3. Nest this unit inside a second, slightly larger nylon bag. Note that the delicate plastic liner is sandwiched between two layers of strong fabric.
For big tripping packs, I heartily recommend the waterproof nylon liner made by Ostrom Outdoors in Canada. It’s sized to fit the largest portage pack and it comes in one color—yellow. Piragis is the only U.S. company I know who stocks this product.
HARD WATERPROOF CASES
Cameras, binoculars, trail stoves and aluminum fuel bottles require crushproof protection. Military surplus ammo boxes (lined with foam) are the traditional camera armor, though the deservedly popular plastic Pelican and Otter boxes are more reliable. For mounds of photographic gear and cookware there are olive and pickle barrels. Piragis carries an excellent padded harness for the large size barrel. You can also store delicate items inside a plastic ice chest or large plastic paint bucket. Tape or tie the cover shut so it won't come open if you capsize. Some canoeists set a plastic waste can inside a waterproof bag then set this combo into a packsack or duffel bag.
POLES
Poling is the fastest way to ascend (and possibly descend) a shallow steam. Traditionalists prefer ash poles, while modern polers favor lightweight, unbreakable aluminum ones. By "windmilling" an aluminum pole, you can travel about as fast as two people can paddle!
The lighter the pole the better. A 12 foot long aluminum pole (the recommended length) weighs about three pounds. Wood models weigh five to seven pounds. Wood poles must have an iron shoe at one end to prevent splintering.
If you select an aluminum pole--and most competitive polers do--be sure its ends are sealed so the pole will float. Some aluminum poles can be dismantled for easy carrying--a good idea if you do much portaging. World champion poler Harry Rock tells all you need to know about poling in his book, The Basic Essentials of Canoe Poling.
SAILING RIGS
Two poles and a poncho are all you need to sail a canoe. The bow person scrolls the poncho around the poles and wedges them between his or her feet. Tighten the scroll as the wind picks up, open the scroll when the wind dies down. A gentle tail wind provides plenty of excitement--that is, provided you maintain firm hold on the sail.
Serious canoe sailors demand a more sophisticated set up--one with 60-120 square feet of sail. The "lateen" rig, which consists of a pair of booms that slide on a short mast, is the most popular rig, as it eliminates the need for a long unwieldy mast.
Unless you plan to use your canoe exclusively for sailing, you'll want a rig that bolts on and off instantly. A screwdriver and pliers should be the only tools needed to install and dismantle the outfit.
Lee boards must be rigid when they're down and there should be no play between the mast seat and step. All parts should be aluminum or varnished hardwood.
The best sailing rigs come with aluminum tilt rudders which can be steered via a rope attachment. Prices very from about $150 for simple rigs, to $1,000 or more for sophisticated twin lateen outfits.
ROWING ATTACHMENTS (OARS)
If you want to go blisteringly fast--and can tolerate the disapproving stares of traditionalists--install oars on your canoe. Serious rowing rigs have sliding seats, adjustable foot braces, sophisticated aluminum outriggers and hand-crafted, spoon-bladed oars.
MOTORS AND SIDE MOUNTS
At the outset I should make it perfectly clear that no serious canoeist I know would ever use a motor on his or her canoe. It's a matter of pride, tradition and respect for silent sports.
Nonetheless, a small displacement outboard can turn a recreational canoe into a serious fishing boat--one which can quickly negotiate windy lakes then probe up twisty creeks where bigger boats can't go. It takes less than a minute to attach/detach a small motor to a canoe. And, a gallon of gas goes a long way. If the motor should break down, you can always paddle.
Horsepower? One to three is plenty for the typical 17 foot canoe. A five horse engine may sink your canoe at the dock if you apply full throttle!
Motor mounts should clamp to the gunnels quickly and easily. You should not have to drill holes or supply special bases. Side-mounted transom pads are best made of varnished marine plywood.
Be sure the mount can be adjusted so you can use your motor on different canoes. Some models (like Grummans and Old Town Trippers) have a very beefy stern, while others (like the Old Town Pnobscot and most We-no-nah’s) have a narrow one. A good side mount will fit any canoe with a minimum of hassle.
CANOE CARRIERS FOR CARS WITH AIRPLANE STYLE DOORS
The days of generic racks that clamp to a car's gutters is over. Nearly all of today's vehicles have airplane-style doors which require precision fitted brackets. It is generally generally conceded that Yakima and Thule lead the way in gutterless designs. These companies offer racks to fit nearly every car model. Caution: the load brackets which come with gutterless carriers are designed to fit specific vehicles. They should not be jury rigged to fit cars for which they are not designed.
Even if you don't plan to buy a second canoe, you may need to shuttle a friend's, so be sure to order double-length (78-82 inches) racks--the factory standard 48-inch carrier is too short to carry two canoes.
Expect to pay upwards of 200 dollars for a quality car-top carrier. Locking bars are essential to prevent theft. Even then, many paddlers store canoe racks inside their cars when they're on the river.
Tip: Pad the crossbars of your carriers with carpeting or heater hose (it slides on easily if you lubricate the rubber with brake fluid). Never place canoes directly on hard, unpadded racks.
CAR TOP CARRIERS (FOAM CUSHIONS)
A set of car cushions consists of a pair of tie-down straps and four grooved foam blocks which snap onto the canoe's gunnels. Unlike conventional carriers, cushions can be installed and removed quickly and are easily stored in the trunk of a small car. The down side is that only one canoe can be carried at a time, and the canoe is "questionably" secure. Personally, I would never trust my canoe to this type of rig!
CANOE CARRIERS WITH WHEELS!
For years, canoeists have been trying to figure a way to attach wheels to their canoes to make portaging easier. Canoe carriers, which consist of a pair of lightweight wheels, a long axle and a support carriage of some sort, may be the answer to the portability problem faced by out-of-shape, weak or disabled paddlers. Wheeled canoe carriers are scorned by serious paddlers, so be prepared for disapproving stares if you use one.
In practice, the fully loaded canoe is placed rightside up on the carrier and pulled over land. The carriers are then disassembled at the water's edge (a simple process) and placed into the canoe till the next portage.
Wheeled canoe carriers are expensive and are practical only on well groomed trails or roads. They won’t work in the BWCA! Since they support a canoe only at the center, heavily loaded, fragile craft could be at risk.
PORTAGE YOKE AND PADS
Carry a heavy canoe alone from the garage to the car and you'll see the need for a yoke. Some yokes replace the center thwart; others are channeled to fit over it. Both designs are adequately strong.
If you do much portaging you'll prefer the warmth and springiness of a wooden yoke. But not all wood yokes are good. Those built of softwoods are too thick and lack spring. Hardwood (ash is best) yokes can be thinned for good flexibility and still retain adequate strength. My book, CANOEING & CAMPING, BEYOND THE BASICS, shows how to make a good yoke.
Try the yoke on your shoulders and check the pads for proper spacing. Can pads be moved in or out to fit grownup and teen shoulders? Be wary of soft pads which bottom out under load and stiff pads which don't mold to fit your shoulders.
I prefer cushy, oversize pads that clamp (with heavy aluminum fittings) to the yoke bar and are quickly adjustable for width—so they’ll fit everyone, regardless of size. Piragis stocks them.
Non-adjustable yoke pads should be bolted through the yoke or riveted to a metal backing plate. Wood screws and glue are not enough. Be sure there is enough bearing surface at the ends of the yoke bar to prevent it from twisting or breaking loose from the canoe's gunnels. Each end of the yoke should be secured to the gunnels with two widely spaced bolts. One centered bolt may allow the yoke to twist and split.
TIE DOWNS FOR YOUR CANOE
Nylon rope and S-hooks are all you need to make your own tie-downs. If you prefer commercial tie downs, look for plastic coated or nylon molded nylon
S-hooks that won't scratch your car's bumper, and be sure the ropes or straps are long enough to reach from the bumper to the ends of your canoe. Frankly, most serious canoeists prefer ropes to straps. Why? Because ropes won’t be stolen if they’re left on a parked car, and they don’t have buckles that can gall paintwork when they’re thrown over a car-topped boat. Straps are for trailers and for people who don’t know how to tie a “power-cinch” (trucker’s hitch).
Caution: Do not use rubber ropes or elastic bungee cords to secure canoes on cars. A high wind could turn your canoe into a kite!
ANCHORS
Anglers will want a lightweight anchor for their canoe. There are some nice collapsible ones which weigh less than three pounds. You can make a reliable anchor by filling a basketball net or netted bag with rocks. Attach a carabiner to the net and a rope to the carabiner and you're set for serious fishing.
KNEE PADS
There are commercial types or you can make your own from a piece of closed cell foam. Glue pads into the canoe with waterproof contact cement. Choose a foam type that is not degraded by ultraviolet light.
SEAT PADS
Pads take the sting out of hard seats. Closed cell foam may be duct-taped over the seat frame or covered with canvas or nylon and strapped or tied into place. Choose a light colored foam or fabric cover that reflects the sun's heat. Or, just buy a set of Dan Cooke’s (Cooke Custom Sewing) excellent seat pads.
Space does not permit detailing all the canoe accessories you may need or want. Here are some more things to ponder before the next paddling season rolls around: canoe chairs, back rests, (I think The BackSaver, by CushGear is the best) and floor racks; sponsons/pontoons and fabric splash covers; thwart bags, paddle bags, map cases and running compasses; repair kits, waxes, finishing oils and abrasives to maintain and polish your canoe; signal and rescue gear--mirrors, whistles, flares, smokes, serrated river knives, carabiners, pulleys and ropes.
This about covers basic canoeing needs. What you need for camping out--or launching a gourmet lunch along the river--is another matter.
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